Below is a transcript from the video “How to Store Carrots Long Term” from CNG member Kat the Farmer. For the full instructional experience, check out her video here and make sure to sign up for Kat’s newsletter on her website!
I’m Kat the Farmer, and I’m going to tell you how to store carrots for long term use. We’re going to dive into all those little details that make a really big difference when it comes to shelf life– whether its harvesting, washing, packing, temperature, humidity– all the gritty details that go into that.
These principles transfer to all sorts of root crops– beets, turnips, rutabaga, daikon– you can use these principles for those crops, too.
There are a few considerations you can make before its time to harvest to ensure the best storage quality. You’re gonna be looking in your seed catalog for varieties marked for good storage quality. In my case for carrots, it’s Bolero. It’s the king of storage carrot selections.
That goes for other storage crops, too. Certain radishes are designed for storage while others are not.
As far as planting-timing goes with carrots, I try to get my big fall planting of carrots planted so that at maturity, they are at risk of getting frosted. I’m looking at that first frost date in my area and trying to plan my planting date just so that when they are mature, they have the opportunity to get frosted a couple of times and put some sugar down into those roots.
Chances are if you’re watching this video, you’ve probably had a mixed history of storing carrots successfully. So let’s dive into the considerations during the actual harvest time that you’ll need to keep in mind.
When I’m out in the field pulling the carrots, I like to top them in the field (cutting the greens off in the field). And when I’m doing that, I’m taking extra consideration to cut the greens off at just the right point so that its sprouting ability is inhibited but I’m not cutting so far down that it looks mutilated. I’m also sorting for quality as I go, so I’m setting aside the ones that are worm eaten or are shaped like dancing people. I can do a further grading for size when I get back to the pack house.
As you’re going through your harvest, you may accidentally break some of your carrots either because they won’t pull out or you stab them with your spade. Those carrots will store just fine. That won’t compromise the storage ability of the carrot but you might want to cull them out anyway just cause they’re less marketable. Sell them to someone who wants juice or just make pickles for your own pantry (or something like that).
During harvest you’re not just cutting off the tops, you’re also trimming the root hairs. This is only an important step for long term storage. If you’re gonna use or sell your carrots within the month, this step makes no sense. But those little root hairs that extend down into the soil of the tap root are gonna be the first thing that rot in your storage bin or bag. They turn to jelly or mush – then they can mush up the whole bag – and then you have to wash your carrots one more time before you have to use them in the springtime. Trimming the root hairs is that extra step for the really extended shelf life.
After harvest, sorting and trimming, you’re going to wash your carrots. You’re going to get them super clean and the easiest way to do that is to clean them right away. Carrots that get harvested dirty and stored for a little bit – you might stain the carrots with the soil and the soil kind of crusts on there and it’s harder to get off. You can get them really clean by washing them the same day that you harvest. And you’re not only washing them but you’re also going to need to dry them. All of this should take place in a shady area.
You’re gonna want to see the roots go from shiny and wet to sort of a matte color or a matte texture on about 80% of that carrot surface. Then you know it’s safe to put that carrot into a bag and get it into storage.
If you are patient and you go through that drying step– whether that step happens out in the open air in the shade or in your breezy walk-in cooler, that eliminates the need to have ventilation in your storage bin or perforation on your storage bag. You can use a solid tote or a solid bag for that long term storage.
My favorite bag size for storing root crops holds 12 pounds of carrots. It’s 14×20 inches and once I get them all packed, I’ll put them in the walk-in cooler at 35 degrees to 40 degrees or so, and they live in there for long term storage throughout the winter… and well into springtime.
Here on my farm, I’m using a CoolBot in an insulated trailer as my walk-in cooler. As the carrots are stored over winter, I get a little nervous about the outside temperatures coming in and penetrating the cooler… so what I do is set up a heater and a Inkbird controller to stop the cold from coming in. Anytime it’s less than 30 degrees outside I want to have that set up and I just have that set up till springtime to prevent the carrots from freezing in storage because that would ruin the quality. Cracking on the carrots is a result of that – so that’s one extra step you can take to avoid freezing your carrots.
The end result of taking all these steps to store your carrots is beautiful sweet carrots that stay good until springtime.
Actually, it’s mid-June when we’re filming this video and I’ve been using these carrots in my prepared salad kits all spring long! It’s been so great to have that as an addition. I really think that if farmers and gardeners can learn how to store food, they can really provide more year round access to local food for their community of eaters so thank you for watching and happy growing!